THE HOME TEAM
How the Chinese experienced the Olympics.
by Peter Hessler
The Chinese take big events in stride; this was how they survived Mao, and weathered disasters like the Sichuan earthquake.
The
night before the opening ceremonies of the 2008 Olympics, Wei Ziqi
joined two of his neighbors on the local barricade. It consisted of a
rope stretched taut across the road, and the attendants had been given
wooden paddles that read “Stop!” in both Chinese and English. Two of
the neighbors wore blue-and-white polo shirts with the “Beijing 2008”
logo across the chest. Sancha, their village, is a ninety-minute drive
from the capital, and marks a point where the Great Wall winds through
the mountains of northern China. At the barricade there was also a
piece of paper with a message in English: “Please help us to protect
the Great Wall. This section of the Great Wall is not open to the
public.”
According to the Beijing
Organizing Committee for the Olympic Games, or BOCOG, there were more
than 1.7 million citizen volunteers in the region. The most visible
ones were stationed at Olympic events and at places like the airport
and downtown intersections, which were usually staffed by high-school
and college students who spoke some English. These urban volunteers had
been outfitted by Adidas, an official Olympic sponsor; the company
provided gray trousers, new running shoes, and bright-blue shirts made
of a high-tech material called ClimaLite. But the ClimaLite and the
corporate sponsorship disappeared in the countryside. That was one way
to gauge distance—north of the capital, the urban development thinned
out, and along the way the volunteers’ gear became more ragged. The
ClimaLite was replaced by cheap cotton; the running shoes were no
longer standard issue; the Adidas logo was nowhere to be seen. Many
peasants wore only a red armband, because they were saving the new
shirt for something more important than the Olympics.
And
yet the rural volunteers were diligent. Sancha’s population is less
than two hundred, but the village had enlisted thirty residents to
staff the barrier around the clock. Earlier that afternoon, when Wei
Ziqi drove me through the countryside to the village, we were stopped
at two other checkpoints. We also passed a crumbling Ming-dynasty tower
manned by a lonely sentinel wearing a green armband that read “Great
Wall Grounds-keeper.” In Bohai township, six miles from the village, I
registered with the police. For the Olympic period, the authorities had
banned foreigners from spending a night in this part of the
countryside, but they made an exception because I had rented a house in
Sancha since 2001. “Just don’t hike up to the Great Wall,” the cop
warned me. He said that the big tourist sites were open, but everything
else was off limits. On his desk was a stack of police manuals entitled
“The Terrorist Prevention Handbook.” While we chatted, I opened one to
a random chapter: “What to Do if There’s a Terrorist Attack in a
Karaoke Parlor.”
For China, 2008 had been
the most traumatic year since 1989, when the Tiananmen Square massacre
occurred. In March, there had been riots in Tibet, followed by a brutal
crackdown by the authorities. Overseas, human-rights demonstrators
disrupted the Olympic-torch relay, leading to an angry nationalist
backlash in China. In May, a powerful earthquake in Sichuan province
killed more than sixty thousand people. Recently, there had been a
fatal attack on Chinese military police in Xinjiang, a region in the
far west where much of the native Muslim population resents China’s
rule. All these events had contributed to the stress of the Olympic
year, but I didn’t understand the concern about the Great Wall.
“They’re worried about foreigners, people who might want Tibet
independence,” Wei Ziqi told me. “They don’t want them to go up to the
Great Wall with a sign or something.”
It
was fear of a photo op—that somebody would unfurl a political banner
and take a picture atop China’s most distinctive structure. The
government also worried that a foreigner might hike in a remote area
and get injured, creating bad press. For this, the authorities had
mobilized more than five thousand people in the region, but labor is
plentiful in rural China. And these volunteers were getting
paid—another difference from the city, where patriotic students were
willing to donate their time to the Motherland’s Olympic effort.
Peasants were too practical for that; in addition to the free shirt,
each rural volunteer received five hundred yuan a month, about
seventy-three dollars. In Sancha, where the average resident earned
about a thousand dollars per year, it was good money.
For
Wei Ziqi, though, the Olympics didn’t represent a windfall. He and his
wife ran one of the few businesses in the village, a small restaurant
and guesthouse, and they missed the Chinese city dwellers who usually
drove out on weekends. Since July 20th, the government had restricted
the use of private cars, in an attempt to improve the capital’s
notorious air pollution. The system was regulated through license-plate
numbers: cars with plates ending in even digits could be used only on
even-numbered days, and the odds were limited to odd days. This
effectively ended overnight trips—if anybody drove to the village and
stayed past midnight, he was stuck there for another day.
I
never heard Wei Ziqi complain about the Olympics; nor did he show any
animosity toward the hordes of “Free Tibet” protesters who were
supposedly threatening the Great Wall. For a middle- or upper-class
Beijing resident, the reaction would have been more emotional—such
people were proud of hosting the Games, and many Chinese had been upset
by the disruptions of the torch relay. But rural folks knew the limits
of what they could control, and there was a distinct detachment from
outside affairs, even those which affected the village. No adults in
Sancha planned to attend any Olympic festivities. When I asked Wei Ziqi
if he and his family would accompany me to some events, he said, “I
don’t want to go.”
“Why not?”
“We’re not supposed to go into the city,” he said. “They don’t want a lot of people there right now.”
I assured him that spectators with tickets were welcome at the Games.
“It’s not necessary,” he said. “We can watch it on television.”
The
night before the opening ceremonies, I joined him at the barricade with
the other villagers. Wei Ziqi’s shift was 9 P.M. to 6 A.M. Only two
cars passed through, both of them dropping off locals. Afterward, the
vehicles turned around to hustle back to the city, because they had
odd-numbered plates. It was like “Cinderella”—nobody lingered on the
road after the clock struck midnight.
One
barricade volunteer was a middle-aged man named Gao Yongfu. “President
Bush just arrived,” he announced, fiddling with a small radio. “He’s in
Beijing now. Putin is coming, too.” He continued, “An American company
has the rights for Olympics television. They have the rights for the
whole world! Even if China wants to broadcast the Games, it has to go
through that American company.”
The third
volunteer, a woman named Xue Jinlian, didn’t think that that sounded
right. “They can’t control what China broadcasts,” she said.
“Yes, they can.”
“I
don’t think so. Not in China’s own country!” Xue was silent for a
while, and then said, “Chinese people are naturally smart. Their
problem is they don’t have enough money. You look at America, and a lot
of the top scientists are Chinese. There’s a lot of smart people here,
but if there’s not enough money they leave.”
Village
conversations had a way of veering off suddenly, like a hawk that
catches some invisible air current, but inevitably they returned to
settle on certain topics: food, weather, money. Gao brought us back to
the weather—the air was heavy, but he said that the government wouldn’t
let it rain the following night. “They can make it rain somewhere else
instead,” he said. “I don’t know how it works, but it uses high
technology.”
The villagers were still
discussing the weather a little before midnight, when I walked back to
my house and went to bed. Later, I heard that the first car of August
8th had come through the barricade at around 2 A.M. The license ended
with the number two—a Beijing motorist determined to make the most of
his twenty-four hours. That same day, the government would fire more
than a thousand silver-iodide-laced rockets into the sky, insuring
perfect dryness for the opening ceremonies. At 5 A.M., jet lag woke me
up, and I wandered back down the road. Behind the barricade, Wei Ziqi
dozed in the passenger seat of his car, and morning light shone on the
Jundu Mountains, and nothing about the peaceful scene suggested that
this day was different from any other.